Breaking Up a Dog Fight

 BREAKING  UP A DOG FIGHT 

In the event of a  serious dog fight  the aim is to break it up as quickly and safely as possible . Therefore some punitive methods not otherwise recommended  may be necessary in the  event of a fight taking place .

The  first  line of defence is to prevent  a fight happening in the first place . If your dog  is fearful aggressive or even friendly but  over enthusiastic  or rough ,address this issue by way of  reactivity techniques that teach  your  dog to  be calm , not reactive .I can teach you these techniques.  Build a solid  recall with distraction and dont  let your dog  off the leash or a long line (which lets your dog be  effectively "free" but  under control )  until you have a reliable recall  no matter what distractions are present . 

PREVENTION -IN THE STREET/PARK 

Don't allow your dog to meet every dog  it sees- and don't believe the owner of that out -of -control, not- coming- when- called off leash dog rushing up to your's  when they shout "He's friendly! " That's code  for "I have no control !"   I avoid dog parks  because in  my experience many people take their  dogs there because it's  the only place they can release them and have them  not able to run off .Avoid by teaching your dog to turn back to you( before you need this  skill ) and walk briskly away , and toss a handful of treats towards the other dog  as you go.  Most  dogs  wont follow you far ,and if they do the owner will be motivated  to run after  you  to catch it . Yell "He's infectious !" Putting a muzzle on your dog  if warranted will motivate  other people to keep their  dogs away .Cross or stand in the middle of a rd if nearby - this will stop traffic,  motivate  the owner to grab their dog , and hopefully get you some help and witnesses if attacked . If your dog is off lead ,call your dog and run or walk  quickly  away  so your dog will follow you. You can get behind the nearest gate , ring a  doorbell of the nearest house that seems to have someone home  to help , or carry a shake can ( empty  soft drink can with some stones in it taped shut) or a riding crop - a cheap, light- to -carry horse riding whip that can hang from your wrist  that makes a scary swish , stings like crazy ,  and  lets you use it at a  distance .  If you  can't increase distance , teaching  your dog "middle " ( stand facing forward between your legs ) will help keep your dog calm and  keep you and your dog safer than if you tried to pick it up . See my face book page  video section for  video on teaching middleor give me  a call  .

IS  THE DOG SUITABLE TO MEET  ?

What if you want your dogs  to meet ? Avoid tension on the leash . Dogs should  meet in neutral territory . Dont take other dogs into your dog's home turf, or vice versa. Make sure any dog your dog is to meet has a  good history  of  playing off leash with a variety of dogs when  between 8-16 weeks old. Have the dogs continued to play well with unfamilar  dogs ? Have they ever bitten and punctured dog or human skin ?What does one  dog do if the other dog  wants to grab a toy , food, or get close to  you ?Does the meeting place enable you  to seperate  the dogs if needed behind a  gate  or strong dog crate /pen ? Dog should not meet face to face but be presented  to each other nose to groin . Its better  to start with the dogs at a distance and slowly  get  closer. There  are a number of techniques  you can use to introduce them - I can help you with  this .

WHAT IF YOUR DOGS FIGHT AT HOME ? 

Fights  between dogs that  live  together are usually about resources  or redirected  aggression or in the  case of intact dogs, hormonal. The mistake that most people make is not identifying and addressing  the triggers , and  seperating the dogs after a fight then trying to bring them back together after they calm down .  Dogs  need to calm down in each other 's presence ( safely ).You need help with reactivity , disengagement , and  counter conditioning techniques - this WON'T get better on its own.  

IF A FIGHT HAPPENS 

Don't panic ! Most fights sound worse than they are , and panicking or screaming  will only make it worse . So what can you do ?

If you suspect  your  dogs may fight , have head collars or  front leash attachment harnesses  or basket muzzles if needed  and leads on them when together under supervision  so you can just grab the end of the  lead  and remove  the  aggressor . This is a temporary measure  while  you address the cause of the fights with training ,but is your safest option . 

If you don't have a lead on the dogs , if possible, ringing the doorbell will often stop a fight . Alternatively throwing a blanket or coat over each dog seperately  will often srtop the fight   (be ready  to grab them ). Spray the dogs  with water - preferably  a hose .Use a shake can or bang pots, or an oven tray , or  bang chair legs on the floor ,  or drop something - any loud noise . If the  situation happens enough to warrrant  it get an air horn  from a marine  supply store . You can push a chair leg or a tray or oven tray /rack , sheet of galvanised iron , or similar  between the dogs. If you expect  you may need  it have a spray bottle ready  with a  strong mix of  vinegar or lemon juice and water  in  it .

You may use the wheel barrow technique if necessary -but you are risking getting bitten . Co-ordinate  your actions with a second person. Each person at the same time grags a dog by  the hind legs at the point where the  knee meets the stifle  and swings the dog to their  right so their mouths move away from each other. This makes it harder (but not impossible )for the dog  to  bite the human . Once seperated  get  one  dog out the closest exit.

.A "break stick "is a  very effective tool dog fighters use to  pry one dog's jaws off another . This is dangerous for you and the dog  so be aware of the risk .  A  tent stake or  wood splitting tool  or similar  will provide you with  a  last ditch method  to pry a dog off  if nothing else  works .Preferably tether one  dog  and pull the other away so both are stretched out  then wedge the stick in  the gripping dog's mouth  and twist  until it  lets go . This is obviously  difficult  to do and you may  have to wedge the stick as best you can  without tethering the dog. 

Obviously  some of these methods carry more risk than others  and not the preferred  method  but if necessary  do what you must . Preventing  a fight is a far better option-  and that's where training comes in . 

 

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