Cats  scratch furniture   to -

-shed outer claw covering  and sharpening the new claws

-stretch the body 

-claim ownership of the object and surrounding territory

-expressing emotion eg excitement

 If you catch your cat scratching furniture you should  distract , divert , or deter . You should not  yell, punish,  handle roughly , move, or spray the cat with water . This is because  the cat will associate  the unpleasantness not with the scratching  but with YOU. If you punish your cat for scratching in fron of you you will find it more difficult to  encourage it to use the  appropriate post in front of you .

 Toss a treat or toy , walk away into another room and call the cat , or  get out a toy - wave a fishing wand toy around .

Why is the  cat scratching there ?  No alternative? Provide one . Claiming  territory ?  Conflict with another cat ? Work on improving the relationship  and provide more scratching places . 

 Provide  a better alternative .  If you have no  scratching post, provide one .  If you have one that the  cat doesn't use , look at why .

A scratching post needs to be  sturdy   ( no tipping if jumped on  or climbed up  ), tall enough to stretch on , doesn't move , has a grippable surface , and is located in the right place  - usually in the centre of  territory or near resources  . An expensive  scratching post is worth the money it will save you in ruined furniture  .

 Dont  throw away an old well loved scratching post .  Cut off any strings ( your cat must swallow any string  that gets caught on it's tongue) and encourage use by adding toys, catnip ,treats, etc .  If you replace it , place a new one  beside it  and  make it attractive  with  dangly toys , treats, etc . Rubbing a new post with catnip will appeal to some cats , placing cat treats on it  regularly  will definately  help . 

Some cats prefer wood,  some corrugated  cardboard, some rope, some sisal.  Some like carpet but it needs to be rough  and without loops that will catch claws .  Provide  a stump  or log , buy a good ready  made  scratching post ,  build your own( you can use carpet with the  back facing out as the scratching surface , or attach a piece of carpet or sisal to a wall if you like  ! The more perches and beds it can accomadate the better - cats need  heights they can access. It may need  to be near a window  or in a place central to the home .  As with litter boxes , if it is in the wrong place  it  will not get used .

Over time a post will get wear and tear and become  loose , so  ensure it remains solid and safe .

 More than one cat will need more than one scratching post . One portable scratching post  is  a good idea . Place  multiple posts or corrugated cardboard scratching boards in various places  so one  cat cant guard them all.  A post by a food bowl or a sleeping place  is usually  a good spot  . Sometimes  it will be near a doorway.  Place a post in an area where a cat sprays .

Location is important . Note where your cat likes to scratch and where it hangs out or naps , and place posts there .Move the  old target  ( eg lounge) , to one side  a few feet temporarily , and place the post there. Treat the cat every time it uses the post .

When buying new furniture, look at it from the perspective of how appealing it is to scratch on, and avoid that if possible.  Smooth fabric is  a better option  for  being  unappealing to your cat ( but not leather  or vinyl  which will  be too easy to put holes in ). When your  new furniture  arrives , make the scratching post  more appealing then usual. If your cat scratches a piece of furniture in one location, moving that to somewhere else, or making it  completely inaccessible if possible  ,and placing a post there or if you cant  move it away placing post  beside it ,  can solve  the problem. Clean scratched furniture with an enzyme  based cleaner  if possible  to de -scent  it . 

When your cat is  reliably  using the new post , you can put the furniture  back .  Making the new post as attractive as possible  and covering  the furniture  with a slip cover  will  help( you can place sticky paws over it  if wanted ), or covering it with plastic  garden lattice , rough sandpaper , sticky paws ( an adhesive  sheet  you can stick to  the item to discourages the cat from scratching .) or double sided tape, or place  strong citrus scent  or vinegar on the item ( not close to the post ).  Play around the post with your cat . Scratching the post yourself in front of the cat may work ! Don't place  the cat's paws  on the post  becue this will put it off.

Providing  enrichment - play  and hunting  eg  interactive feeding puzzles  - is always  helpful no matter the behaviour problem.

Cats are often surrendered for litterbox issues,  which are resolvable .

Litterbox issues can be caused  by :-

-The wrong litter. You may like perfumed litter or litterbox liners,  but your cat probably doesn't . Granulated litter is painful for grown cats to stand on. The best litter  is  usually sand like . 

-The wrong box. Often cats don't like covered boxes  because they can be trapped in the box if another  cat approaches ,and the smell can be trapped too .  Never buy a self cleaning box - they can frighten  injure and kill cats. Plus the litter box contents gives you valuable information  about the  health of your cat. 

-The wrong place .  Your cat won't like a box in a  busy location, or next to the washing machine  when it 's going, or if it' s an obstacle course to get to it .

-Not enough boxes. The rule is one box per cat plus one , in various places so one cat can't guard all the boxes .

-Multi cat conflict . One cat may be going outside the box because another  cat is guarding the box , or to claim territory.

-Health issues . Your cat may not  be making it to the box in time,  or associates the box with pain  eg because it has a UTI.

-Trauma . If something unpleasant happens when the cat is in or near the box , eg  dog bothers it , a  sudden noise , or  a  cat outside threatening  it , it wont  want to use it . 

-Too far away . Kittens or elderly cats may not make it to a box  if they have to go  a long way to get it to it  eg downstairs .

-Box is too small .  Provide a big box that your cat can use comfortably.

-Dirty  box. If you don't scoop the box daily and clean it thoroughly  regularly ,  your cat will not enjoy using it . 

-Box is too close to food and water .

-Feliway  plugins ( petshop ,vet or internet ) where the cat is going in an inappropriate  place , will often stop the cat  toileting there.

-Peeing on your bed . This may be an attempt to claim territory from another cat,  or  to seek comfort  from your scent .  Identify  and address the cause , and close the bedrooom door until it's resolved . Provide the cats with multiple comfy beds in various places  in the meantime .

NEVER  punish your cat for toileting in the wrong place . You will only teach it to fear you  and pee there when you aren't around .  Find the  cause of the litterbox problems  and address them .

Teach your kitten/cat   to use the box if needed  by placing  kitten  in the box  after play session,  a sleep, or a meal ,or every few hours.  Reward your cat with a treat  after it uses the box as often as possible .

Clean the area  where the cat has  toileted with an enzyme based cleaner ( biozet laundry powder in tepid  or cold water is your cheapest  option )  as if you don't use enzymes  that will break down the chemicals  the smell will attract it back .  Even if  you do remove the smell  effectively , using the area repeatedly  will  form the habit in the cat of going there. 

As a last resort confine your cat in a room , or a  kitten pen  if absolutely  necessary (an indoor pen with a roof ) so it has no alternative to using the box . When your cat is using the box reliably after a few weeks to  a few months , gradually  allow it  more  freedom.    

 What  is a " Dog Whisperer"?

 "Dog Whisperer" sounds good , doesnt it ? Someone who comes in and works magic on your dog 's  unwanted behaviour  and hey presto , it's gone !

If only it was that simple !

 Effective dog training relies on an understanding of  psychology  and natural behaviour , using  that understanding to educate owners , meet the dogs 's needs,  modify behaviour, and sometimes to teach a high level of complex skills .  There are 3 methods of dog training - punitive ,  "balanced " and positive reinforcement  also known as force free or reward based .  

Positive reinforcement is based on decades of  scientific research ( since 1948 ) which has found  that  the most effective and kindest way to train your dog is by rewarding the behaviour  you want and preventing by management  and redirection the behaviour  you don't.  Positive trainers tend to be educated  and qualified in dog behaviour  , and  do not use pain or fear   because  of the psychological and often physical  harm it does .  

 " Balanced " training  claims to reward  wanted behaviour and punish unwanted  behaviour . This sounds logical- but the  dangerous  psychological  damage from punishment still occurs . If anything it makes training your  dog harder because your dog will become fearful  of geting it wrong  (and often aggressive ) when it cannot  predict  the outcome  of a behaviour . Dogs are not people- there is nothing wrong with ripping up an item or taking food if you are a dog , so how can your dog understand  why it makes it you mad ? No it is not feeling"  guilty" - it's fearful and trying to pacify you when it creeps, shows it's belly, and licks you .

Punitive trainers claim rewards are" bribes " and  a dog should do as it's told  because it was told . They often show no understanding or  empathy  for a dog 's natural behaviour . They tend to have no formal  education in dog behaviour ,  or if  educated , to have  chosen  to be educated in very "old school " ways  and to dismiss  modern psychology. They call positive reinforcement trainers " snowflakes " and  "cookie pushers " . Science has repeatedly  shown dogs trained by punitive or balanced  methods  often  become  anxious  or aggressive  - every  aggressive  or anxious dog I have  trained in  8 years ( about 1,000  currently ) was punished  or frightened  by it's owner , previous  trainer, breeder,  or another person. Punitive trainers tell owners they  must" be the  alpha "  and  "be the  pack leader "  and " dominate your dog " . (Dogs  are not actually  pack animals , wolves are, and dogs are not wolves , just as you are not a chimp ). 

Reactivity and aggression toward another dog is usually fear based. Punishing fear does not stop fear - at best it teaches the dog it is dangerous to show  you  fear , or results in learned helplessness and the dog gives up trying to escape the cause  of the fear ( increase  distance ).  So the punitive trainer then claims the shut down dog has stopped the unwanted behaviour . But it hasnt changed - unlike  positive reinforcement training  which changes behaviour by taking away the fear and replacing it with positive associations - it is simply supressed,  and like a cupboard crammed full, it will eventually burst open .   

Punitive trainers advocate prong collars , electric shock  collars , slip leads, choker  chains  and leash "corrections "/ "pops"- a nice way of saying  a  strangling jerk around  the many  very delicate structures in the throat . Punishment only works  because  if  it hurts enough the dog will stop showing  you that is afraid  of the trigger . It is still afraid . Punishment for being afraid simply proves it was correct to be fearful.  

"WHISPERING" ? OR JUST CLEVER MARKETING ?

" Dog Whisperers" claim  to use magical powers and unique insight to " train " dogs.  They pour scorn on rewarding behaviour ,which leaves them with only punishment . Magical mind control  really means  fear and intimidation and if that doesn't work , they resort to pain - choke collars, slip leads, prong collars, and shock collars .  They call these " corrections" -because  choke, hang , strangle , shock, and stab  doesnt  sound like something you should do to your dog , does it ? How many people would hire them if they called  this what it is - some would because sadly some people simply like to hurt those less powerful than themselves , but some people  simply don't know that these dog  "trainers" either don't know , or are simply lying to them, about the harmful effects of  punitive  methods . 

The  best known "whisperer" is Ceasar Milan . Milan is an UNeducated trainer who advocated using force fear and pain to control  dogs. Milan's TV show  was  slammed as " dangerous ","inhumane "  " cruel "," outdated " and  " improper " by the American Humane Association in 2006. National Geographic was forced to put a warning on the show - " Do Not  Try This At Home "! Milan has been the subject  of multiple lawsuits and has been bitten many times .Sadly Milan inspired a great many dog " trainers " and  there are still many of them around , because dog training is not a regulated  industry .I In USA many dogs and puppies have been killed by starvation, hanging, and physial violence , and even in Adelaide a dog was killed by heat when  left  in the van of a dog training  company .

Yet these trainers continue to call this " training" and call themselves  supernatual  beings with superior abilties, and some owners  either have no problem with it, or don't know it is harmful or believe ,as they have been told it is necessary.    

I know not a single qualified  positive reinforcement dog trainer who calls themselves a"dog whisperer". Qualified positive reinforcement dog trainers tend to promote themselves by way of their qualifications and science backed methods , not " magic " or telepathy . 

I have had many clients who went to various trainers  and were told  not to reward their dog , one  was  sold $100 worth of punitive equipment( I immediately told her to throw in the bin)  and when the "magic" didnt succeed  in stopping  the behaviour in  a few hours - no training can actually change behaviour in this time frame  without the most horrific abuse -  after jerking the dog off it's feet by the neck, one client was told her dog was " untrainable " and she should take it to a shelter and he would sell her a puppy .After calling me  for a consult and  coming to  class for 12 weeks  - her dog  was in her words " a different   dog ".  See her review  on my website / google  reviews !  Another client  had a rescue  chihuahua who  was pulled by the neck through a doorway by this  trainer which resulted in  the dog being unable to be touched . In 5 minutes using a technique called BAT ( Behaviour  Adjustment Technique  ) which rewarded the dog with distance as it was now  too afraid to even take roast chicken ,he was trotting happily through the doorway of his own accord with NO FORCE. 

Walkerville Vet wrote  a post that referred to a dog who was brought to him for euthansia for  aggression  after  being trained by a " dog whisperer ".  The owner still thought the trainer was wonderful . Fortunately  the vet was able to  convince the owner to give him the dog and after some positive reinforcement training the dog was no longer aggressive.

Please question the magic . Replace it with science . Your dog and your wallet will thank you .

 1 Ethical breeders show you mum, dad ( if on premises) and other relatives .They show you genetic testing results and the kennels .If you don't  see the kennels you can't report poor conditions to the  RSPCA .There is NO valid excuse for not showing you .What are they hiding? .

2 Ethical  breeders give you a written guarantee regarding genetic problems that can be tested  for, and illnesses .They state in writing what they will pay for in regard to genetic  problems and illness in pup when you first take it home .Under consumer law you are entitled to replacement,  refund,  or repair ( vet bill). You will probably have to go to court to get  vet bill paid. A breeder who balks at this before you pick pup up is a red flag. Ensure the contract isnt full of bogus conditions - eg " agree not to walk pup on concrete because it causes hip dysplasia." It doesnt ,but it gets them off the hook for the vet bill .

 3 How do the dogs react to the breeder ? Fearful or happy ?

4 ANKC, Dogs SA, Cat and Dog Management  Board  etc  are just registering bodies and do not enforce codes of conduct or genetic testing or other health care  . Dont rely on them to help you against the breeder . 

5 Don't agree to breeder co- ownership without  a written  contract  stating EXACTLY  what it entitles the breeder to. This has been used to take pets from owners by  breeder or to send them interstate to shows  or for breeding  and they are never returned  . Don't rent  the dog . Make sure you have  the controlling interest. 

6 Don't only take the pup to the breeder's vet if there is a health problem . The breeder is their client,not you. Get a number of neutral  and specialist opinions .

7 Don't view the pups and fall in love with them before seeing mum, kennels, testing,  contract , etc .

8 Reviews-  if there arent  any , what don't they want you to see? Where there  any problems ?  What  did the breeder do ? Are any complaints reasonable  or petty ?  Reviews that just  say pup sweet and cute are worthless. They all are.

9 Older pups- why  havent  they sold? Were they returned ? Why ? 

10 Arrive early . Catch them unawares . See what it's like when they aren't expecting you .

11 Google  them .  Ask around  shows and other breeders. However be aware there are some petty and untruthful  people in the  show world- so get a feel for the consensus of opinion. 

12 If  breeder doesnt question you about your knowledge of the breed  or educate  you about it  or ask about how you will manage pup, they only care about  the money .  And research the breed  before  you buy . If you don't know how to train your dog,  factor in the cost of a trainer for the genetically driven behaviour you may not like.  

13 Multiple litters , mixed breeds ,or lots of dogs may be a breeder for profit.

 14 Breeders should take back their dogs if you cant keep. Contract  should say so. 

15 Breeders are not qualified  trainers. I have heard some appallingly bad training advice given to puppy buyers from breeders . NO breed "needs a firm hand".  If they talk about " alpha" " pack leader " etc, RUN .

 16 What does breeder supply in way of puppy pack ? Comforter toy, mum's fur , blanket smelling of mum, food , initial insurance, written advice re puppy  problems, detailed pedigree , copies of health and parents' genetic  tests ? 

17 Are puppies being raised in the house ? If not they wont be socialised or house trained . Breeder should be house training them . If  puppy is older  it should be leash trained and socialised . 

See pinned post on my facebook page for  more details.

Snake season is particularly  bad this year. The good news is positive snake avoidance training is simple . You just need to practice to make it a habit- and refresh your dog's memory regularly to be on the safe side   . 

 Teaching your dog anything with positive reinforcement is just a matter of cue / trigger - followed by desired behaviour - reward . 

You have a number of ways to accomplish this. 

TEACH A DEFAULT BEHAVIOUR / RECALL - teach your dog that the sight smell or sound of a snake is the cue to move away. Intially you need a leash and the trigger - snake skin( handle with gloves ), harmless snake eg a pet python  in a safe carrier ,or a lifelike toy snake on a string, the track where you know a snake has recently been, or with some dogs you can use an image or sound of  a snake on google. You might teach your dog  a cue  eg touch your leg then call your dog away from the trigger and ask for the leg touch so your dog will always  come back to you and touch your leg  when it detects a snake . REWARD WELL ! Or you can simply teach a recall -but you will not be aware  of the reason of the dog's unprompted return to you if you don't teach the cue that follows meaning snake . You can also teach your dog to return to a designated place eg the house or a pen( you can rig the pen to close after the dog enters it ) if you aren't around  to keep the dog from going back to the snake or the snake from entering the dog's pen ( use snake mesh to keep the snake out .) 

BACK  - teaching  dog to back away and then following snake cue with this will with  practice develop the habit of backing away from a snake. 

LEAVE IT- teaching a reliable leave it and then practicing with the snake cue will also develop the habit of leave a snake .

IMPULSE  CONTROL - impulse control follows on from leave it (or can be taught seperately )and is leave it without the verbal cue from you . So that your dog sees a snake and  walks away from it .

DISENGAGEMENT -  teaching your dog to disengage from the trigger without a verbal cue , a slightly different way from impulse control to teach your dog to switch off from a trigger . 

PREDATION SUBSITUTION -  a technique that teaches your dog to disengage from a prey item by rewarding it when it disengages from the trigger  with a "hunt "/ chase  of a prey substitute thrown in the other direction - fun and reward happens in the opposite direction of the prey. As with everything, practice builds it into a habit so you no longer need the chase of the substitute in order for the dog to disengage  from the trigger . 

If you need help with any of these, call me . 

OTHER WAYS TO CONTROL SNAKES- 

BARRIERS:-

Snake mesh is a metal mesh of less than .6 mm  which is too small for snakes to enter , which you can attach to the outside of a fence , also lay or bury a barrier of it in front of the fence, and have a slight overhang on the outside to keep snakes from climbing up and over, and ensure it can't climb over by way of a tree or other plant. If you use chicken mesh or loose bird netting, snakes will become entangled and injured or killed. A trapped alive snake will mean you have a dangerous snake stuck in the mesh /netting. It is illegal to kill a snake in South Australia unless it is attacking a person. A snake catcher is expensive and will release the snake within 2 kms of where it was caught, because snakes who are released further away will usually die. 

BIRDS -

 Peafowl, turkeys ,pheasants ,guinea fowl, geese, emus and ostriches will eat or noisily mob and chase away snakes,but  are often very noisy( neighbours ) and require appropriate  fences, permits,  etc . Encouraging kooaburras , butcher birds, owls and raptors, if any around your property, will also prey on snakes. Plant trees that will attract these birds .

Chicken coops will encourage snakes( eggs,chicks, mice and birds after feed). Roosters may attack snakes. 

RODENTS - getting rid of rodents will help discourage snakes, ( eg keep feed in bins , snake mesh will keep mice out too ). 

WATER -   snakes are attracted to water sources especially when it is hot . Sadly ponds may attract snakes. 

 ROCKERIES AND HIDING PLACES EG WOODPILES-   cement up holes snakes might shelter in , stack wood neatly off the ground and behind  a snake mesh or similar barrier  .

OVER GROWN GARDENS - keep shrubbery and grass short and ensure you dont put hands or feet where you can't see . Snake fangs are quite short and don't penetrate deep, so long boots ,long thick pants and sleeves are recommended as offering some protection for humans.  

SNAKE REPELLERS -  snake repellers may or may not work- opinion is divided- but I believe it is always better to use it in hope it works, than not.

PLANTS - some plants eg marigolds, garlic , onions , cedar , lavender , cactus and other prickly plants , are reputed to discourage snakes but this is also disputed .Again better to plant them than not, in the hope it helps .You can google a list of plants.

SCENTS - vinegar, cedar chips ,ammonia, onions, mothballs, citronella  etc are reputed to repel snakes but this is also disputed .Most if not all of the scents claimed to discourage snakes will also affect pets . 

NOISE - most snakes are shy and will try to avoid threats, so making lots of noise, stamping your feet , and avoiding any hiding place will usually keep you safe . 

 INDOORS - snakes seek shade and cooler environments when tempratures are over 30 degrees as they cannot cool themselves .Therefore they sometimes get into homes and sheds and under items like iron sheets on the ground. Snakes can flatten themselves enough to get under a standard door so blocking gaps under doors etc is essential . 

 REPELLENT SPRAY - from Allan Burnett of Reptile Awareness  Displays of Australia. 

 120 ml oil of cloves 

20 ml eucalyptus oil

20 mls tea tree

20mls lavender oil

 20 mls sandalwood oil

 Dilute to 1 litre with water 

 Spray every month .

 IF BITTEN -  call for help , don't move the limb , apply pressure bandage , transport to nearest vet ( having called ahead first - and take your wallet with you because they may not start treatment without payment ), ancedotally Vit C ( im injection or oral ) helps - google receipe .

FIREWORKS  AND THUNDER 

 What can you do if your dog is  scared of fireworks and thunder?

 Some recommendations are:

providing a cosy den ( eg a covered crate or a sheet hung over a table or an open wardrobe )

using  white noise to cover eg  tv or radio,  playing classical music (  CD " Through A Dog's Ears  " availble from Victoria Stillwell 's site , is designed to  soothe  an anxious dog )

placing your worn clothing in it's bed

 Adaptil ( pheromone  plug in)

 an anti anxiety/ cuddler  bed

 a  pawpal ( soft toy with beating heart , heat pad and breathig sounds )

 playing with the dog with a high value toy (eg flirt pole, ball, tug toy) ,starting before the thunder or fireworks if possible

massaging your dog. Not brushing (unless your dog LOVES being brushed - most don't because many brushes are painful -sharp metal bristles or combs used in knots will teach your dog that  brushing is painful). 

BUT - STUDIES HAVE FOUND THE BEST WAY TO TEACH YOUR DOG THAT NOISES ARE GOOD IS- TO FOLLOW ALL NOISES WITH DELICIOUS  TREATS.

Noises do not have to be thunder or fireworks . Following as many noises as possible with treats or some other high value reward will teach your dog all noises are the cue that  good things will happen . Building a history of positive outcomes after hearing the noise  will make the thunder or fireworks just another noise that predicts a treat . Start well before you expect fireworks or thunder -  weeks or months if possible  -train FOR the situation, not IN it.  Your dog will not be interestd in the treat once it is already upset . Teach it well before . 

You can use the actual noise - google or record the noise and play it back very softly or with your dog at sufficient distance that it is calm and interested in the treat .Treat the dog after every  bang.When your dog is unbothered 10 times in a row, increase the volume or bring the dog closer in very small increments  and repeat each stage until dog is comfortable 10 times in a row before you increase it again .

You can provide  long lasting enrichment eg  food stuffed and possibly frozen kongs , food frozen in muffin tins or milk cartons, lickimats spread with delicious high value food  and possibly frozen . (Frozen food takes longer to eat ). Once your dog  knows this is really good ,he will be much more interested in it when the noises are happening . 

THUNDER 

Sometimes your dog is not bothered by the noise but the static electrity  in the air . In that case letting your dog drag a chain from it's collar onto the floor, spraying it's feet with antic static laundry spray (don't let it lick it's feet ),keeping it off carpet,wetting it's feet or putting it in a bath or running shower or on a wet floor, can help . In addition each bang is followed by a REALLY delicious treat .  

 Whenever someone tells me they have " tried  everything " with their  problem dog  -I can guarantee they have NOT .

There is a mentality that says dogs are incapable of learning , incapable of  self control . It's not true .It's not true you have "tried everything".It's not true greyhounds can't recall  or disengage from a chase ,that collies can't learn not to herd the traffic,  that your american staffy can't stop barking at the neighbours.

 If  you  were foolish enough  to add a terrier to as home with pet rabbits without thinking that through , you get what you deserve - BUT - it IS  possible to own both  successfully - if you want it badly enough. 

 Your dog absolutly CAN  learn to control  it's impulses. What is true  is the singular lack of committment most people have to get the dog to that point . 

Between not committing to changing what they do, not putting forth the effort to do so, and relinquishing any attempt to do so to the belief that dogs can not be taught to govern their own actions , is the mentality  that strips our rights as owners to live with our dogs in meaningful ways.

 It is so easy to lower our standards  because the solution looks  like work and smells like effort - but every time we do that it diminishes  the  value dogs bring to our lives.

Instead of breeding away from  working qualities because people want  the look of a breed without the drive, select a breed that  suits your lifestyle if you aren't going to do the work. 

If  you choose a breed with a working history   remember that  even if your dog may not have the  same drive as  a working counterpart , there are enough genetic remnants to make life interesting  for you !  People are amazed  when they  tell me what  breed their dog is and I can tell them what their  unwanted behaviours are .  Care  enough to research  the breed  and it's behaviour tendancies  before you get it . There are consequences  for every action. Choosing the wrong breed  for  your lifestyle ,  choosing the wrong individual once you settle on a breed ,not making an effort to  to help that dog succeed, isnt a " dog  problem ". It's an OWNER  problem ! 

 I can help you explore that too before you get that dog .

 Instead of getting frustrated at  an animal for your bad choices you can make it work  when you select a trainer who can teach you  how to develop and  channel drive, redirect , focus, or , if necessary, suppress  drive . 

 Stop blaming the dog. Stop listening to people who  generalise  based on an incomplete  model of untrained  or poorly trained dogs .

If your dog is  expressing it's genetic heritage and  you just cant take it anymore-  look for someone  to help you understand how to fit that square peg in that  round hole. 

The only  thing seperating  you from the dog you want to have - is TRAINING

When you  ready - I am here .

  Current advice re desexng is that the dog should  be fully grown  as the sex hormones play a role in growth and joint health. For all but giant breeds this  is about 12 months old.   Giant breeds eg great danes  newfoundlands  etc, it is  18- 24 months old .  Hormones play a role in the growth of some cancers and the prevention of others,  however  it is important that dogs are not allowed to breed indiscrimately due to the vast numbers of unwanted pets. 

 MALES

From a behaviour perspective testosterone  does not cause  aggression- BUT  it does INCREASE  whatever your  dog will do when challenged .  Some people argue that testosterone  increases confidence and therefore  reduces aggression . In an non aggressive  dog ,yes - BUT   most dogs will respond to a challenge with AGGRESSION. Overconfidence will also lead to faulty risk assesssment   and may cause a male not to back down from a challenge .  Testosterone makes an animal less cooperative . An intact male will be more determined  in a fight  because more testosterone is secreted when challenged  and this will increase whatever is the animal's  response to being challenged . If that's aggression you are in trouble ! It also increases energy , motivation,and dopamine  release ( released in anticipation of the reward , not the reward itself ) which will make your dog fight harder and inflict more damage  . In addition I find  in my practice  the dogs who persistently  hump  are usually intact males, intact males are more likely  to  aggress  to owners when removed from something they want, and are harder to train because they are more interested in the  environment( rival / mate )  and  less interested in their owners  . 

FEMALES 

 Neutering a female makes little difference  to aggression in dog s who live together because  hormones and neural transmitters are produced in other organs besides the ovaries  ( eg gut,  adrenals ) . Oxytocin ( along with other  hormones  eg estrogen progesterone and testosterone )  not only works to increase mother/ baby  bond  and bonds with  partners  but also to increase aggression  towards those  "not us "- eg a new dog who doesn't belong,  or a rival for resources.   Therefore  fights between females  are usually much more aggressive,  and in the case of dogs who live  together much harder to resolve ,than fights between neutered males ad male / female pairs .

If your male  dog is aggressive  to other dogs I find desexing will usually  help  and it is irresponsible to breed  indiscrimately . 

 1 Increased Fear And Anxiety

: Especially if punishment is inconsistent or harsh ,  your dog will become anxious or fearful because it doesnt actually know  why it was punished . After all, from your dog's perspective  the behaviour was natural and appropriate  and gets it  something it wants - eg bark at a passerby whom is percieved as a  threat, passersby leaves  .  Punishment  will make your dog fearful of you or some item or context  it associates  with the  consequence . Eg if I tipped a bucket of spiders over your head, you may become fearful of buckets as well as me.  If your dog is punished for barking at the passerby, it will become  more fearful and reactive of passersby.  It will cease to try new behaviours for  fear of getting it wrong and being punished .   

2 Aggression  And   Defensive  Behaviour 

: Your dog will react to what it percieves  as a personal threat  by defending itself . It will  start to get in first and bite BEFORE  it can be hurt .   This is then labelled  an " unprovoked bite ".

3 Breakdown Of Relationship.

:Punishment willl erode trust and cause  your dog to be wary of interaction with you.Cooperation will be decreased . Your dog will become  difficult to train  because your bond has been damaged . 

4 Behaviour Suppression.

:Punishment will shut down behaviour and may seem to improve compliance in the short term -but is ineffective for long term behavioir change . Your dog will not learn an  alternative  acceptable  behaviour from being punished .  At best it will learn not to do the behaviour in front of you .    

 Most people hold their pulling dogs on a short leash because the second they release the leash the dog takes off. But if you do this the dog never learns to stay close to you on a loose leash . The natural reaction to tension on the leash is called the oppositional reflex- your dog will resist presssure  and pull.The classic way to teach loose leash walking is to stop walking when your dog pulls or to turn and go in the other direction , wait for your dog to catch up and then turn back and walk on again. This is ultimately effective but can be slow and tedious .  

The easiest quickest way to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash is to use a long line !

With your dog on a long line reward well and frequently  when your dog is close to you walking with you ,and when it goes away from you you move in the  opposite direction and call  it . In a short time your dog is stuck to you like glue on a loose leash! You are unpredictable so your dog needs to focus on you  ,and being beside you is rewarding . Plus there is no pressure on the leash to resist  .  

Another way to teach this is to teach your dog to focus on your hand or your face (hold a treat for your dog to watch  and lower it to your dog , or start with it  low  and raise it to your eyes, then give it to your dog , or put your hand  to your dog and reward , or count to 3 and drop treats beside  you  on 3. Or simply hand treats to your dog when it's beside you . Any of these keep your dog beside you . 

Just rewarding your dog when it's beside you- even when you are sitting down watching the tv, working on the computer ( or even just  scrolling! ), talking on the phone , eating etc -  builds positive associations with being beside  you .Then when walking, your dog WANTS to be beside you .  

 The easiest  quickest way to solve lots of behaviour problems is to teach one easy skill really well, practice  practice practice ( you can do this a few minutes here and there ) and reward it REALLY  well -  touch  your hand , focus on you , come  to you ,heel . When your dog  is reacting at the window to a passerby , taking food off the counter , running away with an item , pulling on the lead , reacting to a dog ,  digging  up the plants, chasing the cat , going nuts at the doorbell, jumping on people, laying on the furniture  - whatever - you  can ask the dog  to do the skill  you have taught . If your dog does what you ask , it stops doing what you dont want !   

HOW DOES LEARNING HAPPEN ? 

Dogs ( and other animals ) learn  through a process of association. ABC - Antecedent (what starts the behaviour ) Behaviour , Consequence .

If your dog is emotional ( over threshold ), your  dog will learn  that the antecedent  predicts the consequence . Eg if your dog sees and reacts to a dog and is punished for it , it will not  learn that it's behaviour  results in punishment , it will learn  the ANTECEDENT - seeing a dog - predicts punishment . This will result in increased reactivity when it next sees a dog  and expects  to be punished again . 

In order for your dog to learn that BEHAVIOUR  predicts a consequence  it must be calm .In order to do the wanted behaviour it must be rewarding. There are various techniques  to teach  this while keeping the dog calm so learning happens. Eg the dog learns the antecedent predicts a REWARD. Therefore  reactivity  lessens because the  dog forms positive  associations  with the antecedent and learns  to focus back to owner for reward,  and with practice stops reacting.

Psychology . The reason why qualified positive reinforcement   training should be your only choice .  

What Are The  Most Common Mistakes  People Make In Training? Dont Set Your Dog Up To Fail !

1 Not Rewarding What You Want  Enough.- Dogs ( in fact, everything) do what works for them .What is rewarded will be repeated . What is repeated  will become  habit . You can and should reward in some way EVERYTHING you value . Calm and quiet? Reward .Settled or on  their bed ? Reward . Focused on you ? Reward . Coming to you ? Reward .  Seeing or hearing a trigger ? Reward .  Feet on the floor ? Reward.  Making the right choice? Reward.  All of these  things are the foundations of  the complex skills  that undo  the behaviour  you dont  like. Build solid foundations .

2 Not Preventing What You Don't Want While You Teach What You Do. - If you don't make it easy for your dog to do the right  thing  and hard to do the  wrong thing, you will only get the wrong thing. Your dog will make the most  rewarding choice and until it learns your choice  will be the most rewarding, it will choose  the natural  behaviour - jumping on you or taking the food off the counter  or chasing the cat .  Until your dog has learned  what you want it it simply can't give it to you. Having a leash on  when you open the door  to visitors  enables you  to remove the dog  if it's too excited . Without one you can't . 

3 Allowing Unwanted Behaviour To Be Practised.- Remember what is practised will become habitual. Don't allow your dog to practise behaviour   you don't want . Remove  the dog from an exciting  environment  or prevent the behaviour  eg don't leave temptations within reach and use a leash until it' s not needed . 

4 Rewarding What You Don't Want.  -See the behaviour from your dog's point of view . You will then see  how you are inadvertantly  rewarding what you don't want.  Pushing your dog down or telling it off when it jumps on you is rewarding the jumping  because your dog jumped on you seeking interaction with you . And that's what it got .  Yelling at your dog when  it barks  is rewarding the barking because your dog was barking to get  support  for  a percieved  threat ( eg passer by )   or  because you have inadvertantly  taught it that you will pay attention  to barking . 

5 Skipping Steps  In The Training Process. - If you make it too hard  too fast , your dog will fail.  Would you give your child  one piano lesson  then book a concert hall ? NO!  If you make it too hard before your dog  has solid reliable understanding  of what you want, your dog will never be able to progress.

6 Punishing Your Dog . - Punishment  does not teach your dog what to do .Your dog will NOT  understand what it is being punished for.Punishment simply makes you an unprediactable scary monster . Studies have repeatedly  found  that dogs who are hit will often learn to bite and will get in first . Studies have found dogs who are yelled at will have stess hormones in their blood for 48 hrs . Or they will simply ignore you as much as possible because  being with you is simply not something they value .   

7 Not Telling Your Dog What You DO Want. - " No" is not a behaviour . Do you know how to "No" ?  Would you go into a restaurant and expect the  waiter to guess what you want ?  Or would you tell the waiter what you want -and pay for it ?Don't tell your dog what not to do. .Tell it what TO DO . Instead of shouting "No " , say "come !"or "leave it !"Or "sit !" Tell it what you WANT. 

8 Not Listening To Your Trainer- first of all , NOT ALL TRAINERS ARE CREATED EQUAL. Ensure your trainer is qualifed , accredited , and a positive reinforcement  trainer - not punitive, not "balanced ". Punitive or balanced ( rewards and punishment ) trainers will damage your dog psychologically , physically , and will damage  your dog's  relationship with you .Choose your trainer  carefully- but having  done so , do what they tell you. A qualifed trainer will have scientifically proven reasons for what they tell you to do  and be happy to answer any questions about it . Look into the method  and be sure you understand  how it works and the pos and cons of the chosen method- but having done this , follow their advice . It can't work if you don't do it ! 

Then when they have shown you what to do and  explained the reason and answered your questions and demonstrated the technique - it's up to you  to practice  the technique. Dogs learn by repetition and consistent. predictable  outcomes .     

9 Stopping Too Soon.-Practice practice practice !Dogs learn by repetition and consistent predictable consequences . Often people start , the dog makes some progress, then the person slips back to what they were doing, and because the wanted behaviour isn't YET a habit ,unsurprisingly, so does the dog . If you stop before the  new behavior is reliable , it never will be .Happily there are easy quick ways to train your dog  - I can help you with this . It requires comittment -but it needn't be difficult .  

 BREAKING  UP A DOG FIGHT 

In the event of a  serious dog fight  the aim is to break it up as quickly and safely as possible . Therefore some punitive methods not otherwise recommended  may be necessary in the  event of a fight taking place .

The  first  line of defence is to prevent  a fight happening in the first place . If your dog  is fearful aggressive or even friendly but  over enthusiastic  or rough ,address this issue by way of  reactivity techniques that teach  your  dog to  be calm , not reactive .I can teach you these techniques.  Build a solid  recall with distraction and dont  let your dog  off the leash or a long line (which lets your dog be  effectively "free" but  under control )  until you have a reliable recall  no matter what distractions are present . 

PREVENTION -IN THE STREET/PARK 

Don't allow your dog to meet every dog  it sees- and don't believe the owner of that out -of -control, not- coming- when- called off leash dog rushing up to your's  when they shout "He's friendly! " That's code  for "I have no control !"   I avoid dog parks  because in  my experience many people take their  dogs there because it's  the only place they can release them and have them  not able to run off .Avoid by teaching your dog to turn back to you( before you need this  skill ) and walk briskly away , and toss a handful of treats towards the other dog  as you go.  Most  dogs  wont follow you far ,and if they do the owner will be motivated  to run after  you  to catch it . Yell "He's infectious !" Putting a muzzle on your dog  if warranted will motivate  other people to keep their  dogs away .Cross or stand in the middle of a rd if nearby - this will stop traffic,  motivate  the owner to grab their dog , and hopefully get you some help and witnesses if attacked . If your dog is off lead ,call your dog and run or walk  quickly  away  so your dog will follow you. You can get behind the nearest gate , ring a  doorbell of the nearest house that seems to have someone home  to help , or carry a shake can ( empty  soft drink can with some stones in it taped shut) or a riding crop - a cheap, light- to -carry horse riding whip that can hang from your wrist  that makes a scary swish , stings like crazy ,  and  lets you use it at a  distance .  If you  can't increase distance , teaching  your dog "middle " ( stand facing forward between your legs ) will help keep your dog calm and  keep you and your dog safer than if you tried to pick it up . See my face book page  video section for  video on teaching middleor give me  a call  .

IS  THE DOG SUITABLE TO MEET  ?

What if you want your dogs  to meet ? Avoid tension on the leash . Dogs should  meet in neutral territory . Dont take other dogs into your dog's home turf, or vice versa. Make sure any dog your dog is to meet has a  good history  of  playing off leash with a variety of dogs when  between 8-16 weeks old. Have the dogs continued to play well with unfamilar  dogs ? Have they ever bitten and punctured dog or human skin ?What does one  dog do if the other dog  wants to grab a toy , food, or get close to  you ?Does the meeting place enable you  to seperate  the dogs if needed behind a  gate  or strong dog crate /pen ? Dog should not meet face to face but be presented  to each other nose to groin . Its better  to start with the dogs at a distance and slowly  get  closer. There  are a number of techniques  you can use to introduce them - I can help you with  this .

WHAT IF YOUR DOGS FIGHT AT HOME ? 

Fights  between dogs that  live  together are usually about resources  or redirected  aggression or in the  case of intact dogs, hormonal. The mistake that most people make is not identifying and addressing  the triggers , and  seperating the dogs after a fight then trying to bring them back together after they calm down .  Dogs  need to calm down in each other 's presence ( safely ).You need help with reactivity , disengagement , and  counter conditioning techniques - this WON'T get better on its own.  

IF A FIGHT HAPPENS 

Don't panic ! Most fights sound worse than they are , and panicking or screaming  will only make it worse . So what can you do ?

If you suspect  your  dogs may fight , have head collars or  front leash attachment harnesses  or basket muzzles if needed  and leads on them when together under supervision  so you can just grab the end of the  lead  and remove  the  aggressor . This is a temporary measure  while  you address the cause of the fights with training ,but is your safest option . 

If you don't have a lead on the dogs , if possible, ringing the doorbell will often stop a fight . Alternatively throwing a blanket or coat over each dog seperately  will often srtop the fight   (be ready  to grab them ). Spray the dogs  with water - preferably  a hose .Use a shake can or bang pots, or an oven tray , or  bang chair legs on the floor ,  or drop something - any loud noise . If the  situation happens enough to warrrant  it get an air horn  from a marine  supply store . You can push a chair leg or a tray or oven tray /rack , sheet of galvanised iron , or similar  between the dogs. If you expect  you may need  it have a spray bottle ready  with a  strong mix of  vinegar or lemon juice and water  in  it .

You may use the wheel barrow technique if necessary -but you are risking getting bitten . Co-ordinate  your actions with a second person. Each person at the same time grags a dog by  the hind legs at the point where the  knee meets the stifle  and swings the dog to their  right so their mouths move away from each other. This makes it harder (but not impossible )for the dog  to  bite the human . Once seperated  get  one  dog out the closest exit.

.A "break stick "is a  very effective tool dog fighters use to  pry one dog's jaws off another . This is dangerous for you and the dog  so be aware of the risk .  A  tent stake or  wood splitting tool  or similar  will provide you with  a  last ditch method  to pry a dog off  if nothing else  works .Preferably tether one  dog  and pull the other away so both are stretched out  then wedge the stick in  the gripping dog's mouth  and twist  until it  lets go . This is obviously  difficult  to do and you may  have to wedge the stick as best you can  without tethering the dog. 

Obviously  some of these methods carry more risk than others  and not the preferred  method  but if necessary  do what you must . Preventing  a fight is a far better option-  and that's where training comes in . 

If you teach  your dog  to walk on a loose leash or close to you, you  dont need  any special  equipment.  However if you havent  done  so before your pup grew into a strong  pulling dog  or a dog with some problems eg   aggression or excitement  when  meeting dogs or people  or wanting to chase  traffic, you may need some help while  you teach  your dog to keep a loose leash. What you don't  want to do is put pressure  on your  dog's throat or neck . Pressure  here can collapse the trachea , cause increased intercranial  pressure , or even snap your  dog  's C2 verterbrae, aka  death by hanging. So choke chains, martingales ( half chokers ), leads on  normal (flat )collars,  or slip leads  are NOT  recommended .

The best option  will be a harness that fits well and clears the dog's shoulders  so pressure on joints is avoided . It is important that  the leash is attached to the chest  if your  dog pulls .This gives  you leverage  and the  correct angle to gently turn  your  dog back to you . Leads  attached to the back enable your dog to pull  and you can't  turn  your  dog  away from a trigger  and  back to  you . In many cases this will be all you need . 

If your  dog is very strong or aggressive  or you have trouble holding it  eg you are  elderly or frail , or pushing  a pram. you may need  more  help . In that case  a head collar will be helpful . 

The majority of positive trainers do not regard head collars  as  punitive , but because dogs generally dislike  them when first put on no matter how loose they are, some  positive  trainers  dont  like them . However if introduced gradually with lots of positive  reinforcement, dogs are not bothered by them .My position  is that  while  a  front attachment harness  is the best option , some  dogs while being trained  are simply  not able to be held  safely  or turned away in the  presence of a trigger. In that case a head collar  may be needed while training for safety .

I do not  like all brands of headcollars  as not all will be loose when the  dog is not putting pressure on the leash , but if  you choose a brand that remains loose when no pressure is put on it  eg Company  of Animals Halti head collar and  it is  introduced  gradually this is not a problem. Please contact me if you are not sure how to do this . You may google Company  of Animals  videos on how to fit and introduce head collars  to your  dog. I do it  with  more treats ! The owner must never  use a head  collar harshly eg jerk or tug  but merely hold the lead . Only the dog puts pressure on the  lead. If you put your  finger on the bony part of your nose and push this is what  the head collar feels like  when pressure  is put on  the leash  by the  dog. The  dog should be gently taught how to keep the leash  loose BEFORE being walked in it  . Using a double clip leash that attaches to the collar and the head collar enables you to hold the dog without the head collar being in effect , and only brings the head collar into effect if  needed by holding the leash closer to the  head collar . Once your dog is reliable when  walking in the presence of triggers you can  dispense with the head collar.        

What is  an Animal Behaviourist ? What is  the  difference between  a behaviourist and a dog  trainer?

An Animal Behaviourist  has a university degree  in animal behaviour .  A dog trainer  may have  done  some  formal study ( but not a university degree) or none  at all  as dog training is  an unregulated field . Anyone may call themselves a dog trainer  and some   call themselves  behaviourists  when they are not actually entitled  to , so it's  important to  check a trainer's  qualifications  before hiring them .  Not all  dog training qualifications are equal either . Only one  course is currently  recognised by the federal govt  in Australia . Courses which are run through   any other  source eg a training franchise's  own course  or a military or police  dog training background , may  or not be  correct,  may or may not  be  based on science  and current  study , and may or may  not  be harmful to your  dog  if using out dated  methods  relying heavily, even if not exclusively , on punishment .  Vets are not animal  behaviourists unless they have  done  further  study  in that field, therefore  will often prescribe medication to dampen/suppress (but not  change ) behaviour   .    

A  qualified behaviourist  will be  expensive and  often will  refer  client to a vet  for  behavioural medication .In my experience  medication  masks (supresses) behaviour  but  doesnt  change it .Dogs behave  in accordance with what they  have learned  to expect .  If  aggression or  anxiety  is caused  by  a bad  experience  eg  punishment  or a fright  or fear  of an unknown  eg poorly  socialised ,  then this will not change  without  changing the  dog 's expectation when it is in that situation . How do we do that ? Psychology . 

An unqualifed  dog trainer  usually will resort to punishment  when a  dog  does an  unwanted behaviour because  they  do not know what else to do . They do not understand  how learning happens  so they do not understand that punishment  will  only  reinforce the  bad associations ,  and they mistake  rewards as bribes . Scientific  studies over the  decades  have shown  that punishment  creates aggression   and anxiety or causes  the dog to shutdown  (learned helplessness), so this is not going to help the behaviour  and is likely to  add further problems .  

A dog trainer  who has been taught  the principles  of psychology  may or may not be  able to apply these  principles  to modifiy  behaviour . A qualifed dog trainer  may  or may not  work  mostly  with  behavioural problems  . Some of these trainers call themselves  behaviourists  on this basis BUT  they are not actually legally entitled  to do so .

I   am qualified  and  nationally accredited  and  I work mostly  with dogs  with behaviour  problems using principles  of  psychology  and have  done  further  study in these areas  with well regarded  international positive reinforcement  trainers and veterinary  behaviourists.  Therefore I call myself  a  behavioural  trainer -but not a behaviourist . 

Does behaviour modification by way of psychological  principles  work ? Are medications necessary ? Speaking from my experience  of 5 yrs  at the  time of writing , I have never found that  aggression  or anxiety  was not able to be  found to have an identifiable  cause . So while I don't  rule out  medication absolutely I have never to the present not been able to  change the behaviour without  it .  I am recommended by a number of vets  because they have  found that they dont  need to prescribe  medication  for clients ' aggressive  dogs  if they  have a  consult with me . 

I suggest that people  seeking help with their dogs'  behaviour  look at my  blog entitled  Questions to ask A Trainer  and ask  prospective  trainers  these  questions . Punitive  trainers will not call themselves  such as it tends to put many ( but not all )  people off ,   so it is important  that owners  seek very  specific  answers and question anything they  are told  .A reward based  trainer will not object to explaining the pros and cons  and alternatives  to any method they  propose .  A punitive or "balanced "  trainer may call themselves "force free " but then state they  use "rewards AND OTHER METHODS" and "all 4  quadrants of  the  motivation matrix ". This is a contradication  because  if  a trainer uses all 4 quadrants they DO use force. "Other methods " can only be punishment or force . 

So what are the  4 quadrants ?Why do they matter ? 

Here is where it gets technical- but come   with me.... 

The 4 quadrants of the motivational  matrix (how learning happens ) are  positive reinforcement , negative reinforcement , positive punishment , and  negative  punishment .

Positive doesn't mean  good. It  means  ADDED.

Negative means REMOVED.

Reinforcement  reinforces,   that is encourages or INCREASES  a behaviour .

Punishment  punishes, that is discourages or DECREASES a behaviour . 

 Therefore   positive reinforcement   means adding something  to encourage  behaviour to be repeated  ,   eg a treat .  Negative reinforcement   means removing something  which then  encourages(increases ) a  behaviour  eg  removing  leash  or rein pressure   when a dog  or horse  yields  to  it  so the  animal will yield to  the pressure  to make it go away or avoid  it happening  in future . Positive punishment  means adding   something that punishes  so the animal doesn' t like  the  consequence of a behaviour   and therefore  doesn't  do it again(decreases  the behaviour )  eg  hitting  the animal or  jerking a leash . Negative  punishment  means taking away something  which punishes the  animal and discourages the behaviour  eg withholding a treat . 

Therefore  you CANNOT be  a "force  free "trainer  and STILL  use " ALL 4 quadrants" or "rewards and other methods " . By DEFINITION a force free trainer does NOT  use positive  punishment (force ) . A force free trainer  does NOT  use  all 4 quadrants.   

If you are looking for a  trainer/ behaviourist , question them about their qualifications and methods . 

 Does your  dog love to hunt ? Usually  the advice is to teach leave it and impulse control ( dont touch unless told you can ) , reactivity techniques  and  disengagement  games , and  building recall with distractions. And these work quite well - if you work on it . But  hunting is  instinctive  behaviour  and not allowing  your  dog to have an outlet  for this  behaviour   leaves it frustrated  and  prone to exercising this behaviour  in other ways . For example, if you  take the edge off your  dogs' s energy   by throwing a ball thinking you will tire it out, then  stop play  , your  dog has been brought to the  high point of the predation cycle  which builds  excitement , but  left without  "cooling down " and reducing excitement .  So your dog is likely to wind down by carrying out  the  rest of the predation cycle by ripping up your couch !

Instead of stopping your  dog from being a dog , frustrating  your dog  or reprimanding your  dog , give  your dog a fun outlet . Predation Substitution Training  is not a  suitable outlet  for all triggers -  your  dog may drift over into real hunting behaviour  at first  so not  suitable  for reactivity to pets  dogs and  people - but  for birds roos rabbbits  and  stock  that your  dog cannot get , etc ,  it is a great alternative, especially   for hunting breeds (retrievers/ pointers/ setters/ spaniels / terrriers /hounds ) and herding breeds  . 

Predation Subsitution Training  is a technique  in which your dog  is allowed to   and praised  for carrying  out the  first part of the  predation cycle put on cue ( name it )  - scan, stalk ,creep - under control  eg on a long line and at sufficient distance  that your dog can be calm,  and  when it disengages  from  the  trigger  of its own accord ,  directed to  a substitute  prey item( eg a prey dummy or large hard chewy  crunchy  dog treat ) to finish the hunt - chase ,catch , grab, bite , pocess ,rip, consume .  I have been practising this  with my own  dogs who love to  hunt  possums in our fruit trees  for  a week  at the time  of writing this  and saw improvement the first  day ,and by the 7 th day  my dogs  are   immediately  focusing on me  instead of the possums  the second they pass the trees,  and waiting for the  hunt item to be  tossed in the other direction .They catch it  and we all go inside ...  There are  a number of predation subsititute  games  that you can play   as well which give your dog an outlet for this natural behaviour .

If you  would  like details on how  to do this technique  contact  me !

Reward based training is a REWARD  for desired   behaviour  you ALREADY HAVE   . In the early stages rewards may be used to COUNTER  CONDITION , that  is to build positive associations and expectations of good things  happening when a trigger is encountered  which will change  or prevent reactivity , or to LURE a  dog into a position or focus on you , but once the dog understands, which happens quickly ,  it is replaced  with  a reward for behaviour you already have.

Trainers who tell you rewards are bribes  or shouldn’t be used ,  have no  training   and  no understanding  of how learning happens .In order to change behaviour  you must either  punish what you don’t want, which doesn’t  teach your dog what to do instead  and will  damage your dog’s relationship with you   , or reward  in some  way  what you do  want . (Pay your dog !) What is fun  and  rewarding will be  repeated .

If you don’t reward your dog for doing what you want  ,  the environment  will reward your dog  for doing what it wants.   Rewards  can be anything your dog   wants  .Rewards can be phased out  according to a formula  once the desired behaviour  has become  habitual. Using positive  reinforcement  methods  makes  learning  easy  and fun for  dog and owner . This  does  NOT  mean there are no consequences for unwanted behaviour- just not pain or fear 

Puppy classes are  great -but  puppy consults  give  you the knowledge  and  training theory   that classes and other trainers don’t teach you .One to one consults  give you  individual  unlimited attention  and  enable you  to start  work on  all your issues  immediately  .  Socialization is NOT  about puppies playing together , but  about learning to be calm  and focused on  owner  in the presence of  triggers .  Puppy classes   often miss the opportunity  to provide   positive associations  with other dogs for  fearful pups  ,  and in the case of  pups  who are outgoing and  dive into play , you may be building an expectation that whenever  your dog sees another dog it will play with it – and if it isn’t able to it becomes frustrated .

Reactive  fearful and aggressive  dogs  don’t  do well in classes   as there are too many triggers for them . Bringing  a fearful reactive  dog to a class is like tipping a bucket of spiders over the head  of  a person  afraid of spider s! “Flooding” your dog by  putting it in  a situation where it is exposed to triggers and  cant get away  will increase reactivity. Dogs  must be calm to learn  new behaviors .  You must teach the behavior  you want  by way of reactivity techniques   before you can ask for it  in the presence of distractions . Teaching your  dog the behavior you want in a consult enables it to do the behavior in   a class  situation .